The pioneer in this field is Clemson College, Clemson, S. C., which holds a 3week workshop in July; 3 semester hours of college credit are given for 2 courses in cosmetic hygiene and teaching of cosmetology. People from many States attend this workshop. Florida requires beauty-culture teachers to attend a 2-week training course once in 2 years and offers such courses in its State colleges. Other institutions offering summer courses include University of Maryland, Montana State College, and University of Texas.

Obtaining a License as a Beauty Operator

All States except Delaware and Virginia require a license before a beauty operator can practice. This is obtained from the State cosmetology board, after an examination in both theory and practice. (See appendix, p. 41, for addresses of State boards.) Requirements which a candidate must meet before being admitted to examination for a license vary by State. In general, requirements are likely to cover the following points:

Minimum age.
Training..

At least 16 years; 18 years in nearly half the States.
At least 1,000-1,500 clock hours or more in a beauty school; or
apprentice training in a shop; or both.

Health certificate... Required by majority of States.

Licensing fee.
Experience.

blood test.

In some States this includes a

$5 or less in half the States; $10 or more in some States.
A few States require employment in a beauty shop for a stated
period, as junior operator.

If a beauty operator desires to practice in a different State from the one in which she has a license, over three-fourths of the States provide for reciprocity, on payment of the fee, usually without an examination. However, a number of States require an examination of all applicants. Some of these grant a temporary license, pending examination. Some States have reciprocity arrangements only with designated States, some require a period of residence, some specify the necessary training or experience, and a few extend privileges to applicants from all States that extend the same courtesy to their operators.

Licensing Requirements for Special Beauty Occupations

In certain specializations, such as teaching, management, and electrology, there may be special licensing requirements that are not met by the basic beauty-school course and operator's license. The specifications are subject to change, and the person desiring to enter any of these special occupations should ask the State cosmetology board in advance what the requirements are.

TEACHERS. In the great majority of States the qualifications of cosmetology teachers are specified by the State Board of Education, the State cosmetology board, or both. In many States the teacher must hold a beauty operator's license, and, in some, an additional certificate or license

to teach is required. Teaching specifications may include an age minimum higher than that for an operator. About three-fourths of the States require beauty-shop experience, usually at least a year, frequently 3 years or longer, and sometimes, in addition, a designated amount of training in methods of teaching and other courses appropriate to the work.

To teach in public trade schools, it is necessary to meet the requirements of the State Board of Education for all teachers of industrial arts or trades and any additional requirements for teachers of beauty culture, either by the State or the school board in the locality where they are to teach. The requirement of a high-school education for a beauty-culture teacher in a public trade school is becoming usual throughout the country. A college degree is necessary in some States; elsewhere it is possible to substitute experience as a beauty operator.

Requirements for teachers in private beauty schools vary widely. Some States exercise strict control over private beauty schools and set relatively high standards. For example, New York State requires all beauty teachers in private as well as public schools to have 2 years of high school, 2 years' experience as a licensed beauty operator (based on prior beauty-school training), and an approved teacher-training course. In some States, on the other hand, private schools are allowed to hire able students just graduated, without experience in a commercial shop.

MANAGERS. Qualifications for beauty-shop managers are, on the whole, less rigid than for teachers of beauty courses. Experience as an operator-for a minimum of 1 to 2 years-is the most usual requirement. In about half the States the manager must have a beauty operator's license; several States require an additional manager's license based on an examination. The license or examination fees may be higher for the manager than for the general operator.

ELECTROLOGISTS.--Many States now have definite requirements for electrology training and examination, in some cases with a license in addition to that for beauty operation, although some States include the practice of electrology in the beauty operator's license. In some States, the electrologist must be licensed by medical authorities rather than cosmetology boards. In a few cases only a licensed physician is permitted to practice electrology. Other requirements occasionally found are for a period of apprenticeship, or a minimum age which is higher than for beauty operators.

IV. THE BEAUTY OPERATOR ON THE JOB

Entering the Work

After obtaining her license, the girl entering the field of beauty service may work at first in a small shop assisting an experienced operator, or in a large shop where the jobs are more specialized. Her early work is really an extension of her training, perhaps as junior operator or apprentice. If she wishes, she can probably find work near her home.

In some cases, the beginning operator may not be allowed to give service to patrons. In fact, several States require by law a preliminary period before she can begin to serve customers. Even then, she may at first be allowed to do only manicures and shampoos. As she acquires confidence and efficiency she will progress to a variety of processes. Beauty operators estimate that in many cases this takes from 3 months to a year of practice on the job. In salons and exclusive shops that feature special products or treatments, additional training is usual.

As she acquires experience, the beauty operator gradually will increase her clientele and may begin to specialize. The woman who engages in the more advanced specializations must be an outstanding beauty operator, expert in her particular type of work, and able to inspire confidence

in her skill.

The Beauty Operator's Working Hours

The hours worked by the beauty operator are influenced by the requirements in this type of business, the legal standards that apply, the kind and location of the particular shop, and the customary work.hours in the locality. Many customers are employed in industry or business and appointments must be made outside their working hours-frequently in the evening or on Saturday. The peak in demand for beauty services usually comes in the last 2 or 3 days of the week, and many shops are open on Saturdays. However, some shops do not open early on days when evening work is scheduled and others have part-time workers come in for the irregular hours or on Saturdays.

For these reasons, the girl who becomes a beauty operator is likely to find her work hours somewhat irregular. She may work longer on some days; she often will work evenings or Saturdays; and she may have to be on the job earlier on some days than others. Her total weekly hours may run normally from 40 to 48, though the shop may be open longer. TYPE OF SHOP.-The kind and location of the shop affect the work hours. In a beauty shop connected with a department store or other business, operators usually work much the same hours as other employees

in the establishment. In small shops with few operators to divide the work load, hours are especially likely to be long and irregular. In onewoman shops, the proprietor who wishes to hold and develop her business is almost certain to have irregular hours and often long workweeks. LEGAL REQUIREMENTS.-In some States maximum hours of work for the beauty operator are established by law. Minimum-wage provisions sometimes require that the worker be paid at a higher rate for hours. worked in excess of a stated weekly maximum. This tends to shorten hours, since it makes overtime costly for employers. However, in a number of States no legal requirements as to either hours or wages apply to beauty shops. Since this is a local industry, it is not governed by Federal laws.

LUNCH AND REST PERIODS.-It frequently is difficult for the beauty-shop operator to take time off for lunch when appointments pile up and service demands are heavy. In some States the law requires time to be allowed for meals and rest periods. Some laws specify 30 minutes for mealtime after 4 or 5 hours of work. Certain States provide for a 10minute rest period every 4 hours.

Part-time Work

An important feature of beauty-shop operation is that it provides opportunities for part-time work, which may be of great advantage both to the shop and to the operators. The employment of part-time workers enables the shop to serve more customers during the busy hours of the day, to keep open for longer hours, and to take care of the weekend peaks. A homemaker with experience as a beauty operator may be able to take a part-time job to earn funds needed by the family, and have sufficient time for homemaking responsibilities.

A large beauty shop in an eastern city, probably typical of many, is able by the use of part-time workers to give services from 9 a. m. to 9:30 p. m. every day except Monday, when the opening hour is 11 a. m. This is done by operating with two shifts of workers. The first is a full-time shift with an 8-hour day from 9 to 5. Operators on the second shift have a half-day's work from 5 to 9:30. Many married operators with children prefer this afternoon shift, since the father can look after the children while the mother is at work.

In the country as a whole, about 15 percent of beauty-shop operators are part-time workers, according to the Bureau of the Census. In 10 cities surveyed by the Women's Bureau a few years ago, one-fourth of the women employed in beauty shops were part-time workers.

The earnings in beauty occupations vary widely. They depend to a considerable extent on the type of shop, its location, wage standards in the community, the beautician's experience, and her ability to give serv

ice of a high quality and thus develop a large clientele-a group of people that prefer her service.

TYPES OF PAY.-Most beauty operators working in a shop for an employer receive a basic wage and are paid an additional commission based on the total her customers pay for service. Usually, before an operator is paid a commission she must have a total from her own individual customers amounting to double her basic pay. Her commission is 40 to 50 percent of the gross amount of her "take" above double the amount of her salary. "Half of take beyond double" is the usual formula. However, some beauty operators are paid only a salary, and others are paid only on a commission basis. Specialists, demonstrators, teachers, and managers usually have earnings greater than the general operator.

The beauty operator's income is increased by tips paid by the patrons directly to her. In a midwestern city, tips were reported in 1954 to average from $5 to $10 a week for first-class operators. Some States that have established minimum wages for beauty operators (see section on minimum-wage provisions in this chapter) protect the worker's right to her tips by stipulating that gratuities are the property of the operator, not the employer.

Certain larger shops pay a small commission to their beauticians for the sale of cosmetics.

AMOUNTS EARNED.—The new beauty operator usually begins at a relatively low salary, depending on locality and type of shop. In a year or two the operator may be able to double her earnings by building up her clientele. A midwestern State reported that earnings for the average beautician were $35 to $50 weekly in 1950, not including tips. An eastern city reported experienced operators in 1955 as receiving salaries of $50 a week, plus their commission. Another midwestern State reported that in 1954 beauticians with less than 1 year of experience earned from $50 to $60 per week and that experienced operators made from $75 to $100 per week. Tips were included in these amounts. Very highly skilled beauticians and specialists in exclusive salons may be able to earn $150 or more per week. Earnings of male stylists often are $150 or more. However, the occupation has some seasonal characteristics and business may be slack in summer, especially in the larger centers. The earnings of the owners of beauty shops vary greatly. At one extreme is the beautician who works only part time with a clientele of women in the neighborhood and is satisfied with small earnings to supplement the family income. At the other, is the owner of an exclusive beauty salon in a large center of population, who clears many thousands of dollars yearly.

In 1950 the Census Bureau reported on the yearly income of women beauticians, barbers, and manicurists, who were employed in beauty and