The people are Sheeahs, and resemble the Tajeeks, but speak a peculiar dialect. They assert of themselves that they are descended from a Macedonian colony, planted by Alexander the Great, and, like the Badakhshies, they have a superstitious dislike to blowing out a light. They will wave their hand beneath a flame for minutes together, rather than breathe roughly upon it, and they point to some old forts formerly occupied by the Kafirs as ruins of the temples of the fire-worshippers. The men wear woollen chupkuns, some few sport a turban, but the ordinary head-gear is a tight-fitting cap. They are a rude and reckless community, and not at all particular as to the condition of their garments. The women's costume is simple, and consists of a long white woollen gown, with a piece of cotton cloth round the head-but this last is not universal. The women clean and spin wool, which the men weave into cloth.

From the Wakhan goat is obtained much of the hair-wool, of which Kashmeer shawls are made. A breed of dogs introduced from Chitral is much esteemed. They somewhat resemble the Scotch colly, have long ears, a bushy tail, and a slender frame, and are swift, fierce, and combative: their usual colour is black or reddish brown. Barley, pulse, and a little wheat, are grown in the lap of the valley, but not in sufficient quantity to supply the wants of the inhabitants.

Instead of a central fireplace, the Wakhanies make use of a stove placed against the side of the house, which gives out great heat, though the smoke is apt to be troublesome. When darkness approaches, the master of the house pulls down a dry willow branch from the rafters, which he cuts into convenient lengths, and lighting these primitive candles sticks them over the inner lintel of the door.

A common article of food is a kind of cheese called kooroot. New milk, after being curdled, is well churned, and the buttermilk, after it has been thoroughly boiled, is poured into a bag,

another, the felts; and a third, its furniture: besides which, a seat is found upon them for the feeble or young of the family. In one Kirgah which we entered, the children were conning their lessons under the eye of an aged mullah. Some were learning to write, by tracing letters upon a black board with a bit of chalk, while others were humming over the torn leaves of well-thumbed copies of the Koran. Mutilated as was the condition of their books, they were nevertheless highly valued, if we might judge from the strong wooden box appropriated to their preservation.'

The Pameer Kirghiz are men of short stature, from five feet two inches to five feet six inches in height. They have deep-seated, elongated eyes, with no ridge between. The forehead is protuberant, but not high, slanting back abruptly. Their cheeks are large and puffy, and a thin beard sprouts from the chin. They are not by any means a muscular race. The women are rather good-looking, and apparently delicate. Though Soonees, they go about unveiled. They are fond of ornaments, such as beads, gems rudely set in silver, fancy objects of brass, and prettily fashioned articles cut out of the pearl-oyster shell. Both men and women wear round, hollow, brass buttons, obtained from the Chinese, and the latter are partial to a high head-dress, sometimes adorned in front with coloured beads. The Kirghiz women make good wives, being thrifty and industrious. Slaves are rare, except as maidservants. Female children are highly valued, because a bride, not exceeding fifteen years of age, is often worth £40 to her father. A widow passes on, in the first instance, to her husband's brother, and then to the next of kin,-failing these, she returns to her father.

The Kirghiz live principally upon milk and game. Cutaneous diseases are very prevalent among both sexes. The Kirghiz ponies are rough-coated, ugly animals, without much endurance.

Brood mares are held in estimation, their milk, when acidulated, yielding, in spring-time, the intoxicating beverage called Kumeez. The milk is drawn off in the evening, and churned till sunrise, when it is fit to drink, a very small quantity producing inebriety. A large appetite is said to attend upon returning sobriety. The chief men affix to their names the epithet Bai-khan, or nobleman.

CHAPTER XVII.

PAMEER.

DARWAZ-ROSHAN-SHIGNAN-VARDOJ VALLEY-KAFIRS

OR SIAHPOOSH

CHITRALLIEUTENANT HAYWARD ON THE MASSACRES COMMITTED IN YASSIN BY THE DOGRAS-HIS DEATH-GILGIT-CHILAS-BALTISTANPAMEER-HIOUEN TSANG-MARCO POLO-COLONEL YULE-OVIS POLIBAM-I-DUNIAH-LAKE VICTORIA-FOUR CONFLUENTS OF THE OXUS, OR AMOU THE GREAT GEOGRAPHICAL SWINDLE.

BEFORE ascending the elevated table-land of Pameer, it may be convenient to complete this brief notice of the petty States that occupy the broken mountainous region inclosed between the Karategeen mountains on the north, and the Hindoo Koosh, or, rather, the Himalaya, on the south. North of the Panja, and along the east bank of the Soorkh-ab, are the unexplored districts of Wakhsh-whence the Oxus probably derives its name—and Khotl. Further to the eastward runs the Valley of Darwaz-signifying a door'-which Colonel Yule identifies with the Kumidha of Hiouen Tsang and, perhaps, with Ptolemy's Valley of the Comedæ. The people are Tajeeks, and Mohammedans in name, but their religious notions appear to be confused on all essential points. They manufacture cotton cloths, which they exchange for grain and gunpowder. Their country is exceedingly mountainous, but if Colonel Yule's conjecture be well founded, the Seric caravans from Byzantium, travelling by way of Hyrcania, Aria, Margiana Antiocheia (Merv), and Bactra, must have wound with toilsome march their long array' through this steep and rugged valley.

Roshan comes next, inhabited by 1000 families, and then Shignan, with only 300, both professing the creed of the Sheeahs, and speaking a peculiar dialect. Shignan is supposed to be Hiouen Tsang's Chi-ki-ni, peopled by a savage race— perhaps the Saca-who knew not the difference between right and wrong, brutal, ignorant, caring for nothing but the present moment, and without provocation committing murder in cold blood. On the southern side of the Panja the beautiful tableland of Shewa, containing a small sheet of water, called Sir-iKul—a common name for lakes in those parts-was commended by Marco Polo for the refreshing coolness of its climate and the fresh verdure of its pastures.

South of the Shewa plateau, and westward of Ishkashm the valley of Vardoj, or Wardodj, excited Captain Wood's enthusiasm on his return from the bleak Pameer. As we approached the bottom of the Wardodj valley, everything wore the joyous air of spring. The change was delightful. When we passed up, snow lay everywhere. Now, the plough was in the field; wild flowers were sparkling amongst the withered herbage of the bygone year; and around the edges of the stones tufts of young grass were everywhere to be seen. The sheep let loose from their sheds were remunerating themselves for the dry and scanty fare of their winter's quarters. The streams were all unlocked, and we encamped in the open air. The raven, the jay, the lark, the bulbul, or Badakhshan nightingale, were all upon the wing. Numerous insects, too, aroused from their long sleep, began to show themselves; among them were butterflies, and a most beautifully painted species of gadfly.' In all subAlpine regions spring bursts forth as suddenly as Minerva from the brow of Jupiter. By the time Captain Wood again reached Talikhan, the fine sward was enamelled with crocuses, daffodils, and snowdrops.'

The southern spurs of the Hindoo Koosh, westward of the