consolation to me to think that his days were numbered and that the chance of his surviving was small, seeing that the chance of my ever becoming the possessor of the magnificent pair of antlers that surmounted his noble brow was, to say the least of it, infinitely smaller.

The day was far spent when we at length gave up,

and we settled down where we were for the night. A long day on the morrow proved blank; but early the morning after I was once more to catch

sight of a stag. The wind was the culprit on this occasion, which spoilt our stalk and sent the beast flying as if all the devils in hell were after him. This was the last straw, for my patience had reached its extreme limit; and finding that it was still early, I rested a short time while I ate some breakfast, and then took a bee-line for camp. Arrived there, I

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roused up the men, who had had a thoroughly lazy time while I had been toiling in the mountains, struck the tents, and ordered camp down the Sind to Gunderbal. I made a detour myself to visit the vineyards near Manasbal, where I purchased some small white grapes for a few pence, finally reaching camp, which I found pitched under the spreading branches of a huge chenar-tree near Gunderbal, just before dark. A day's march brought me from Gunderbal to the capital, and the pleasant surroundings of the chenar bagh," or garden of chenar-trees, recognised as the bachelors' camping-ground.

CHAPTER X.

SRINAGAR TO BOONJI.

Civilisation once more-A wash and brush up-The Residency-Kashmir merchants-A deer-drive-Preparations for a fresh start-Meteors— Down the Jelum-A doonga-Leisurely habits of the Kashmiri boatman-Bandipur-Tragbal-Across the Raj Diangan-Goorais-Saltana falls ill-Pushwari-Frontier chiefs-Across the Boorzil Pass-Chillum Chauki-Astor-The Hattoo Pir-Ramghat-Boonji-"The Pig and Whistle "-Country round Boonji-Ramzan, shikarie-In search of markhor-Acrobatic climbing feat-An unsuccessful stalk.

To find oneself once more among one's fellow-beings, surrounded by the conveniences and luxuries of civilised life, after an absence of some duration from them, is to experience a feeling of very distinct pleasure; and having lived a solitary existence in the wilds of the mountains for a period of eight months, during the whole of which time I had been a sojourner in strange lands, it was with feelings of complete satisfaction that I viewed the prospect of a few days' rest from the wear and tear of a wandering life, among the pleasant surroundings of the capital and in the cheerful society of the small permanent European population.

I found a good deal of grooming necessary before I was fit to be seen in public, and the voluble native barber whose services I requisitioned found a good hour's work before him ere the overgrown locks of

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a head of, at the best, unruly hair were reduced to something like order, and a razor had performed an office which for eight months had been entirely neglected. This done, a tub and a suit of clothes left behind in Srinagar, with other articles superfluous beyond the limits of civilised existence, to replace the tattered rags which were all that was left of my modest wardrobe, restored my appearance to that of the ordinary product of civilisation, and I sallied forth to meet my friends.

The temporary population which yearly floods the valley in the summer months had fled, leaving behind the few whose duty or business keeps them there throughout the year, and the first person that I came across was Mitchell, whose advice and kind assistance had gone so far to make my trip the successful one it had been. Trench was also in the capital, though in a different capacity now, his duties being to take charge of Ayub Khan; and at the Residency was Sir A. Talbot, whose acquaintance I had not previously made, and who very kindly invited me to stay with him as long as I remained in Srinagar. I accepted his hospitality with pleasure, for a permanent abode, snow white tablecloths at meals, silver spoons and forks, linen sheets, and a host of other trifles, are things not to be sniffed at by any one who is a stranger to them; and last, but not least, fellowbeings to talk to was an attraction which I at least was not inclined to resist.

Very pleasant, indeed, were the days of rest and quiet, which were occupied in making preparations before I started off again. The native merchants, who had subsided into their customary state of winter apathy, woke up suddenly on discovering that a white stranger was in their midst, and swooped down greedily

upon their lawful prey. Many an hour did I while away, surrounded by an eager crowd, all tumbling over one another in their anxiety to be the first to fleece the pigeon. But the pigeon, taught of experience, was a failure as a prey, talked a good deal, laughed a good deal more, and parted with very little, so that the hawks at length fell off and retired once more to winter hibernation. I remember walking along the bund one day with Mitchell, when our attention was attracted by a crowd of jabbering Kashmiris, all hovering expectantly round a single house-boat. "What's up?" asked Mitchell of his chaprassie, who was following us. A broad grin spread over the man's face as he replied, "Naya sahib "--a new sahib. Such attentions on the part of these harpies are apt to become more than a nuisance to any one new to their ways, for mild remonstrance is of little use. Taken in the right way, however, they are harmless enough creatures; and where, after all, is the man who will not do a good deal if he can?

A few days after my arrival, the Resident, who was about to start for Khroo and Traal, preserves of the maharajah, with a view to organising a deer-drive, was kind enough to ask me to accompany him, and accordingly we set off together one afternoon to find a pleasant camp pitched for us at the foot of the mountains above the village of Khroo. We spent two or three days amid superb scenery, and took part in several drives. There was no lack of beaters, for the greater number of villagers in this district discharge their liabilities by beating whenever required to do so, instead of paying tribute to his Highness; but in spite of all our efforts no big game was bagged. I fancy the deer become pretty cunning, for on one occasion one of the beaters was charged and knocked down by a stag who refused