NATURE OF MARKHOR GROUND.

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shot markhor in these regions, and one and all agree that there is no animal that would induce them to risk their lives on similar ground in the way that the markhor does. One friend of mine, a splendid climber and as

hardy an individual as one could meet with anywhere, told me that even he, accustomed as he was to the life, felt the effect on his nerves after a succession of days spent in pursuit of the markhor; but then he added,

"Who ever would go on to ground of that sort if there was not the temptation of a pair of magnificent horns in front of him to urge him on?"

The danger no doubt adds to the attraction of the sport, and when in addition to this you take into consideration the sublime grandeur of the scenery amid which it is carried out, the hard healthy life, the nights in the open with nothing between oneself and the glorious starlit heavens, in some hollow far up in the mysterious mountains, where nature speaks and stirs one's soul from slumber, to say nothing of the wild excitement which pulses through one's being as one surmounts one after another the obstacles which separate one from the object of one's pursuit, and the keen feeling of exhilaration which sweeps over one at a successful shot at the finish of some desperate stalk, I for one have not the slightest hesitation in saying that hunting markhor is a pastime which, if not unequalled, is at any rate unsurpassed by any other. But then perhaps I am prejudiced.

WINTER MARCH DECIDED ON.

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CHAPTER XII.

ACROSS THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER.

Preparations for leaving Boonji-Camp starts-Farewell to Johnson-Up the Hattoo Pir-Dashkin-Detained at Astor-Strange pets-Fresh coolies from Astor-Their rate of hire-Godhai-Chillum ChaukiCrossing the Boorzil-Cold-A change for the worse in the weatherA hard march-A terrible night-The coolies safe-A post-runner lost-Snowed up-Off again-Gurai-A coolie spends a night in the snow-Across the Raj Diangan-From Tragbal to the Woolar Lake— Srinagar and civilisation once more— e-Back to India.

My object in visiting these regions being now achieved, I had leisure to consider my position and decide upon what was best to be done. I had lately received news which, for private reasons, made it expedient that I should return to civilisation at an early date; but a journey at this time of year across the huge barriers of mountains, whose snow-bound passes loomed in grim defiance between me and the outer world beyond, involved difficulties and hardships so great that I might well pause and consider before definitely deciding upon undertaking such a venture.

When after serious consideration I did make up my mind to attempt the journey, I found a good deal to occupy my attention before starting, in making all the arrangements possible, and made all the use of the advantages offered by Boonji as a base. Among these the presence of a tesildah or native official was by no

means the least, and I found him most useful in assisting me to collect coolies for transport. The whole of one morning was devoted to overhauling the baggage and dispensing with as much of it as was possible, for I foresaw that one of my chief difficulties would be likely to arise in connection with transport arrangements. Winter had set in in earnest, with its usual complement of driving snowstorms, biting frosts, and crushing avalanches; and vague rumours of the hardships suffered by those who ventured across the lonely passes of the mountains, of frost-bite, and even of the death from exhaustion and exposure of certain natives who had recently essayed a journey across the mountains, were afloat and obtrusively prominent whenever I broached the subject of transport among the natives. Such rumours were doubtless exaggerated with a view to increasing the rate of hire; but that they were to a certain extent well grounded was obvious when a sorry-looking individual approached me to beg for alms, and showed me in the place of hands a wretched withered stump, the result, he assured me, of frostbite.

Luckily there was no necessity to take tents, there being huts at intervals the whole way; and having discarded all impediments of the kind that I had with me, in addition to all superfluous ammunition and stores, I collected what remained and arranged it into very light loads, to find that I should require at the least eighteen coolies. This may seem a large number to take all that one requires when travelling light; but it must be remembered that though 50 lb. or 60 lb. is an average load for a coolie under ordinary conditions, he can hardly be expected to carry more than 30 lb. or 40 lb. when wading through deep dry snow, if you hope to see him at the end of the day's march;

START FROM BOONJI.

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and besides food for the whole party, the horns required three men, the rifles and guns two more, leaving only thirteen for everything else, including stores, bedding, and the small amount of camp furniture I allowed myself.

When everything was ready plenty of coolies were found willing to go from Boonji, especially when they realised that they were only expected to accompany me as far as Astor, a village a few marches distant, where I was to obtain fresh transport. Among them were three Kashmiris, who had brought grass rope for making the sandal usually worn by the sportsman in the Himalayas, from the fertile valley of Kashmir, earlier in the season, and were only too glad of the opportunity thus afforded of returning to their homes. by volunteering to accompany me and carry loads the whole way. This was satisfactory, and on the 12th of January I started them off in charge of Ram Pershad-of whose excellence as a camp servant I cannot speak too highly-while I remained to spend a last evening with my friends of the Boonji bungalow, and to enjoy once more, before leaving them behind, the many little trifles which go to make life comfortable, well-cooked food, pleasant company, an easy-chair, dry clothes, a warm room, and a score of others, insignificant in themselves, perhaps, and accepted as a matter of course in the ordinary routine of everyday life, but of sufficient importance to make their absence felt and their presence appreciated by any one who may chance to have been in the often unpleasant position of having to do without them.

It was, consequently, the 13th of January when I bade farewell to my kind hosts and shook hands for the last time with Johnson. Poor fellow, it was but a short time after that he met with a violent death, claimed by